Kemha Fabric and its Properties

Kemha Fabric is an old woven fabric. It can be defined as a pile-free silk fabric similar to Atlas and Kutnu fabrics and close to velvet. It was woven with gold and silver wires in the form of embroidery, it is a heavy caftan fabric. Kemha fabrics woven in Istanbul and Bursa are the highest quality and valuable fabrics. The European ones were called "Frengi Kemha". 


The total number of Kemha in an index varies between 6000 and 7000. These products, which are expensive weavings called brocade by Westerners, were famous in the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century. Later they were also woven on palace looms in Istanbul. They had large patterns embroidered on a single colour and were used as upholstery. In addition, since it is a thick and densely woven fabric, it is generally used for making top caftans. 


In the 18th and 19th centuries, as in other fabrics, the quality of these fabrics deteriorated. The warp wires used in weaving decreased, the gold and silver wires were out of adjustment and their amount in the weaving decreased. Kemha is the most suitable, multi-coloured, heavy, flamboyant and tough fabric for the palace and public taste. Timurid period style, reed style, floral style; spring branch, entanglement embroidery scheme, medallion patterned, pomegranate patterned, crown motif in medallioned scheme are the most common patterns used. In kemha weavings, silk yarn, gold-silver wire or kılaptan were used. It is a multi-coloured fabric with silk warp and weft, and the top row of weft reinforced with gold or silver.





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